These flowers have been living on our windowsills for centuries. Out of habit, we call them geraniums, although in reality it is pelargonium. A relative of field geraniums, together with her she belongs to one family - the Geraniums. Pelargonium care at home is simple, and a huge variety of varieties will allow everyone to choose a plant to their taste.

Types and varieties of pelargonium

The genus pelargonium is numerous and includes about 250 species. But they are not all introduced into the culture. Through the efforts of flower growers, many magnificent varieties of this flower have been created. Similar signs make it possible to distinguish its following groups.

Pelargonium is zonal.

This most numerous group includes about 1000 varieties. The plant is unpretentious. When grown outdoors in countries with a warm climate, it resembles a tree, reaching a height of several meters. In room culture, the dimensions are much more modest, but some instances reach a height of 1 meter. There are absolutely crumbs no higher than 12.5 cm - such zonal pelargonium is called miniature. All varieties of this group are united by one common attribute: rings on leaflets, which can be bright and contrasting or barely noticeable. The color palette of inflorescences is very diverse - all shades of red and pink, white, cream and yellow. There are varieties whose petals are painted immediately in several shades of one or different colors.The varieties of this group are so diverse that inside it has its own division according to the strength of growth, the number of petals and the shape of the inflorescence. Variegated varieties are isolated separately.

  • Rosebuds or Pelargonium roseaceous. Sometimes they are also called rosaceae - the numerous petals of terry flowers twisted to the center really resemble miniature roses. Varieties of rosaceous pelargonium: Scarlet Rambler, Australian Pink Rambler.
  • In stellate pelargoniums, flowers resemble stars, and the leaves are very dissected and look like an open human palm with spread fingers. Popular varieties are Faye Brawner and Robyn Hannah.
  • In clove-shaped pelargoniums, the edges of the petals have denticles like those of clove flowers. The most interesting varieties: Pat Hannam Graffity, Violet.
  • Cactus pelargoniums with their disheveled flowers resemble cactus-shaped dahlias. Attention deserves the varieties Ardwick Cinnamon and Bevis.
  • In tulip-shaped pelargoniums, represented by three dozen hybrid varieties, the flowers look like small tulip buds that are not fully opened. The most unusual and original varieties among them are Happy Birthday and Lovely, Popcorn.
  • Very attractive terry Salmon Komtess, Appleblossom, Edwards Embers, Langelands, Brixworth-Rosebud and miniature so-called "Deacons": Moonlight, Birthday, Finale.

Royal pelargonium.

They called it so for demanding conditions of detention, and not for large flowers, sometimes called large-flowered. It has several hundred varieties with varied colors. In some of them, the flower reaches a diameter of 8 cm. They are never monophonic and there are always contrasting spots or stripes on the petals. The leaves of the royal pelargonium are slightly corrugated, have pointed edges. Beautiful Mandarin, Strawberry cream, Candy Flowers Peach Cloud.

Among the royal pelargonium, a species called "Angel" stands apart. Some gardeners allocate them in a separate group. Its peculiarity is large flowers, similar to pansies, with small sizes of bushes - only about 30 cm.This species is less capricious than the royal pelargonium - plants bloom well even in the shade and do not require formation, keeping neat bushes on their own. The most interesting varieties: Spanish Angel, Darmsderm, Sardunya, Henry Weller.

Pelargonium is sympathetic.

Its leaves are similar to ivy leaves and do not have pubescence, and long flexible shoots hang in cascades, for which it is often called ampelous pelargonium. Indeed, the most advantageous this flower looks when planting in a cache-pot. Among the ampelous pelargoniums, there are varieties with variegated leaves, and the color of the flowers varies from purple to red. Interesting varieties: Tomcat, Jester Red / Wite, Aristo Black Beauty.

Pelargonium is fragrant.

This species is not bred for the sake of flowers, which are mainly small in size and rather nondescript. The main advantage of this group is fragrant leaves with the smell of various fruits, flowers and spices: nutmeg, verbena, apple, pineapple, peach, lemon. If you touch the leaf, it gives off the essential oils that this plant is so rich in - they also cause a strong smell. The following varieties can be found in the room: Chocolate Mint smells like mint, Attar of Roses smells like a rose, and Cy’s Sunburst smells like lemon. The leaves of the latter variety are highly corrugated and have a golden border, which makes it very decorative.

Pelargonium: cultivation features

Each species of this plant has its own characteristics in the care. But there are patterns common to all flowers of this kind. The vegetation of geraniums is subject to a change of seasons and the care of the flower in each season will be different.

 

Home Care

The homeland of most pelargoniums is the savannah of South Africa. Hence the love of the sun, and the ability to tolerate a lack of moisture. Long-term cultivation in room culture has little changed the habits of the plant.

Soil requirement

Properly selected soil will ensure good development of the plant and its abundant flowering.

What should it be like?

  • loose, it is good to pass air and water, as well as hold it;
  • light in mechanical composition with the inclusion of sand, moss or perlite;
  • the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic;
  • Pelargonium is suitable nutrient soil, but without an excess of nitrogen, which will cause the growth of leaves, not flowers.

For a beginner grower, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made soil mixture specifically for pelargonium. Connoisseurs make up the soil on their own. There are several options for the landing mixture.

You can recommend the following composition:

  • finished soil - 10 parts;
  • crushed moss sphagnum - 1 part;
  • sand - 1 part;
  • humus 0.5 parts.

Or this: a mixture of humus, leaf and sod land, peat and sand, taken in equal parts.

Temperature, humidity and lighting

During the period of active vegetation and flowering (from March to September), a temperature comfortable for pelargonium is from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius. During the period of forced rest, it is lower - from 12 to 15 degrees. The plant loves fresh air, but he does not like the draft and the royal pelargonium is especially sensitive to it.

The flower does not need high humidity. It is enough if it is within 50%. These plants do not need spraying - pubescent leaves do not tolerate water droplets.

All kinds of pelargonium love the light. But lighting needs different things for them. If even the midday sun is suitable for the ivy, then it is better to shade the royal and zonal during these hours. But for this plant, the excess of the sun is less harmful than the deficiency, therefore, in poor lighting, flowering weakens, the color intensity of the leaves decreases.

In any light, the pot with pelargonium needs to be rotated a little clockwise every few days, so that the plant is symmetrical.

Watering a plant

This plant is better to underfill than to overfill. It will tolerate a slight drought easily, and the overflow is fraught with decay of the root, root neck and the appearance of gray mold. Pelargonium should be watered if the topsoil in the pot is dry. In summer, this is done more often, depending on the air temperature, in winter, watering should be rare, and their amount depends on lighting. With a long daylight and intense lighting, water the plant more often. Water for him needs soft, having room temperature.

Fertilizer and fertilizer

Intensive flowering requires good nutrition. But this flower does not tolerate organic fertilizers. Fertilizer mixtures for flowering plants or a special fertilizer for Pelargovit geraniums are suitable. Before flowering or at the beginning of it, additional fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers will be required. During forced dormancy, additional nutrition is not required for plants.

Pruning and transplanting

If roots appeared from the drainage hole in the pot, it’s time to transplant the geranium. This usually happens every 2 years.

How to transplant a plant?

  • Choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one. Too spacious capacity will cause rapid growth of leaves, and flowering may not be until it is completely filled with roots.
  • At the bottom of the pot with a large opening for water drainage, drainage of expanded clay, fragments of brick and pieces of old pots is placed.
  • A plant in an old pot is watered, it is taken out, carefully separating it from the walls and without destroying the earthen lump.
  • Pour a little damp earth into a new container, place a flower and fill the voids along the walls of the pot with damp earth too.
  • The next watering in 3 days.

Pelargonium pruning is an essential part of care. During the winter, the flower stretches very much, the stems are exposed. In the spring, to give it a beautiful shape and stimulate the growth of new flowering shoots, cut the stems, leaving from 2 to 5 buds on each. All sections are treated with fungicide, colloidal sulfur or crushed coal. During the summer, dried leaves, faded flowers are removed and, if necessary, pinch shoots for better tillering.

Care for geraniums in the fall, preparation for winter

In order for the plant to rest, it creates conditions for a state of forced rest: they reduce the temperature to 15 degrees, cancel or make rare feeding. Watering at this time is best done through the pan, leaving the top of the soil in the pot dry. But lighting for a plant cannot be reduced. If it is not possible to significantly lower the temperature, the geranium needs to be illuminated.

Propagation of pelargonium

Propagating this flower is very easy. Cuttings taken from plants are well rooted. For non-hybrid varieties, seed propagation is also used.

Cuttings

The easiest way to get a new plant. Pelargonium is short-lived, after 4-5 years the plant degenerates and it has to be replaced with a new one, grown from the cuttings. They can be taken during the entire period of active growth and flowering, but it is easier to combine this procedure with spring pruning - there will be enough material to select good cuttings. For ordinary varieties, the length of the stem is from 5 to 7 cm, for dwarf and miniature - only 2-3 cm.

How to root them?

  • We make the lower oblique slice.
  • Remove the 2 lower leaves with stipules.
  • Give the handle a little dry.
  • Immerse the slice in a powder root stimulator.
  • We sterilize the soil for planting and pour it into a small capacity tank.
  • Plant the cuttings in moist soil.

The rooting process lasts from 2 to 4 weeks. The rooted plant is planted in a permanent place.

Seed way

It is not suitable for the propagation of hybrid varieties - the resulting seedlings will not look like a parent plant. The exception is hybrid seeds sold in stores. In all other cases, sowing will help to get new plants in a short time.

Sowing Algorithm:

  • sow in loose moist soil, spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, to a depth of about 2 cm;
  • we cover the container with glass or we put a plastic bag on it, put it in a warm place;
  • Do not forget to air the crops and moisten them from the spray gun;
  • as soon as the shoots appeared, remove the shelter;
  • water as needed;
  • we plant in pots after the formation of 2 real leaves.

Dividing the bush

This method is used if the bush has grown greatly. Usually it is combined with a plant transplant. Pelargonium removed from the pot is neatly divided into parts, preserving at each growth point and part of the roots. All damage is sprinkled with crushed coal or colloidal sulfur. Separated plants are planted in separate pots.

Pest and Disease Control

With waterlogging of the soil, gray mold may appear - a gray coating on the leaves. All diseased leaves are removed, the plant is dried and treated with fungicide.

When the root rot or rot of the root neck appears, no measures will help - the plant will die.

Sometimes other fungal diseases are also found in pelargonium: verticillic wilting and rust. From all fungal diseases, preventive treatments with fungicides before wintering are effective.

If a geranium is damaged by a whitefly, mealybug, aphids and thrips, it must be treated with insecticides approved for use indoors.

Why does the geranium turn yellow, dry, and not bloom?

If the condition of the plant is good, but it does not want to bloom, the possible reasons are as follows:

  • too spacious pot;
  • excessively high temperature;
  • excessive watering;
  • insufficient lighting.

The leaves begin to dry and turn yellow with a lack of moisture. And if the stem is very bare - the plant does not have enough light.

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