Raspberries - a popular berry, the benefits of which can not be said. Each gardener wants the bushes to yield significant crops and not require laborious care. Gartering plants to the trellis takes a lot of time - the shoots are too flexible and prickly. Another thing is the standard variety, popularly called raspberry tree.

Species and varieties

Raspberries, growing in the form of a full-fledged tree, so far do not exist in nature, as there is no curly strawberry. Thanks to selection, Professor Kichina V.V. It was possible to create a variety with a very strong stem, and even a tree from it creates a gardener with the correct formation. Varieties known as raspberry trees are more correctly called standard. Simultaneously with Kichina, Professor Kazakov worked on the cultivation of standard varieties. He managed to get standard repair grades.

  • Tarusa. This is the first standard variety bred by Viktor Valeryanovich Kichina. Shoots are low - up to 1.5 m. Fruits in medium late periods.
  1. Advantages: large - up to 16 g of berries, high - up to 4 kg from the bush yield, lack of thorns, strong stump.
  2. Disadvantages: sour taste of berries, insufficient frost resistance - up to -30 degrees. The growing ability of the raspberry tree of Tarusa is weak - there are enough shoots to replace the prolific stem trunks, there can be problems with reproduction.
  • Fortress. The variety has more delicious berries than Tarusa. But their size is less - up to 8 g, respectively, slightly less and yield - up to 3.5 kg per bush. Frost resistance of the variety at the level of Tarusa. But the ability to shoot is much greater, to propagate this variety is simple. Fruits in the early stages.Berries ripen unevenly and require frequent harvesting. Transported well.
  • Fairy tale. Ripening period is medium, fruiting is extended. Shoots are high - up to 2.5 m. Berries are not inferior in size to Tarusa - up to 15 g, but the yield is much higher - up to 10 kg from the bush. Taste good with a high sugar content. The weak point is low frost resistance of -25 degrees for it, and to bend a standard grade for wintering under shelter is a thankless task.
  • Eurasia - the first grade of standard raspberries with repair fruiting. The height of the shoots is 1, 7 m. Frost resistance in this case does not play a role, the shoots are cut in autumn under the root. The variety is characterized by moderate shoot formation, which is more a plus than a minus: this raspberry will not creep in all directions. The berries of Eurasia ripen in early August, and before the end of September it completely gives back the crop. The berries are large - up to 6.5 g of a beautiful dark raspberry color. Their tasting score is 3.9 points, probably due to perceptible acidity, but it accumulates up to 35 mg of vitamin C. The advantages of the variety include excellent productivity - up to 6 kg per bush and the transportability of berries. The ability to be stored for several days without loss of consumer qualities is not common.
  • Penguin. Shoots are low - up to 1.5 m. Medium-sized berries - up to 5 g, as well as yield - 2.5 kg. The taste of berries greatly depends on the type of soil and weather. Frost resistance up to -26 degrees, but for the maintenance grade it does not matter. Fruiting from the beginning of August to frost.

Raspberry tree: the secrets of growing

Raspberry tree requires the same care as regular raspberries, though with some peculiarities. The main difference is in the formation of the bush.

Outdoor landing

Raspberry tree can be planted both in spring and autumn. The main condition in the spring - the buds have not yet swollen, and in the fall - the leaves have already circled. Planting during active vegetation, the plant does not tolerate well. Raspberries should not be planted immediately before frost - for rooting the bushes need at least 3 weeks.

Predecessors

So that raspberries do not hurt and are not bothered by pests, they are not planted after solanaceous crops or wild strawberries, even their proximity to raspberry trees is undesirable. Moreover, you should not plant the plantation where the raspberry has already been. But the proximity to the apple tree of this shrub is favorable for both crops, bushes are planted on the south side of the tree.

Site selection and soil

Not only the future crop, but also the health of the bushes directly depends on a correctly chosen place for planting. The soil should be light in mechanical composition, it is good to pass moisture and air, and have a neutral reaction. Sandy soils dry quickly and are poor in nutrients. If there is no choice, you will have to add clay and peat during planting. Clay soils are not suitable for raspberries - if it rains heavily, the root system may vypit. High standing groundwater leads to the same result. The best soil is fertile loam.

Raspberries are very sensitive to lack of lighting. Even slight shading during the day reduces the yield of berries and the amount of sugar in them.

How to plant a raspberry tree

The soil must be prepared at least a month before planting.

  • For digging, make up to 2 buckets of humus, 1-2 cups of ash and 150 g of full mineral fertilizer for each running meter.
  • If there are few seedlings, an individual planting pit is excavated for each with a width and diameter of 40 cm. When laying a large plantation, it is more rational to dig trenches for the entire length of the plantings with a depth of 40 and a width of 60 cm. Their orientation is from south to north.
  • The topsoil is mixed with humus - a bucket in the pit and 2 - in 1 m of trench, ash - ½ and a whole glass, phosphorus and potassium mineral fertilizers of 20-30 g.
  • A small mound is poured, raspberry roots are straightened, they can be pre-held for a couple of hours in a solution of a root stimulant.
  • Sprinkle the roots with soil, without deepening the root neck by more than 2 cm. The distance between the bushes should be at least 1 m, it is dictated by the dimensions of the raspberry tree.
  • Each plant is watered by pouring a bucket of water into the trunk circle.
  • Trim the stem at a height of 30 cm.
  • Mulch the soil around it with any organic material.

How to care for a raspberry tree?

Caring for a raspberry tree is not more difficult than for ordinary raspberries, but there are some features: a large leaf mass and a considerable number of berries require a good supply of moisture and nutrition.

  • Watering the raspberry tree requires regular, drying of the soil should not be allowed - the surface root system of the plant reacts poorly to this. Mulching the soil helps to solve the problem. The layer of mulch should be sufficient to retain moisture, but not too thick so that substitution shoots can break through it.
  • It is necessary to feed a raspberry tree qualitatively, otherwise the berries will not reach a value that corresponds to varietal characteristics. In order to provide plants with potassium for the entire growing season, about 400 g of ash is poured around each plant in spring. It needs to be slightly embedded in the soil.

The soil is not loosened deeply so as not to damage the superficial root system.

The first top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out with the opening of the kidneys. A bucket of water, 1 kg of mullein and 10 g of urea will be required. Bushes are fed with such fertilizer 2 more times with an interval of 2 weeks. You can additionally fertilize the raspberry tree with herbal infusion with a predominance of nettles.

Raspberries respond well to foliar top dressing. They are carried out with a solution of berry fertilizer Ryazanochka or Sudarushka at the rate of 1 teaspoon per bucket in cloudy but not rainy weather with a frequency of once a month.

All fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is stopped from mid-August, so that the plants have time to prepare for winter.

Formation, pruning and shelter for the winter

In order for the standard shoots to become real trees, they must be correctly formed. Since each shoot takes up a lot of space, they are not left in the bush for more than 6-7. Cut out the weakest and most damaged. This operation is best carried out along with the removal of prolific stem after harvesting. The formation of standard raspberries.

  • At the beginning of June, and in the south and at the end of May, they pinch the main shoot, cutting off 5 cm of the apex. By this time, it should grow to 1.2 m. You can’t be late with a pinch, otherwise the lateral branches that grow on the bush after it will not have time to mature before winter and freeze.
  • In the spring of next year, pinch all the side shoots so that third-order branches grow.

In the repairing varieties, it is possible to perform only one pinch, so they leave only annual shoots.

This method of formation is suitable for any raspberry, but non-standard varieties will have to be tied very carefully due to the heavy load of the crop.

Non-repairing standard varieties, due to their low frost resistance, need shelter for the winter. It is not possible to bend such a bush to the ground at one time - it will simply break. Do it gradually over several days, bending lower and lower. Bushes prepared for wintering are covered with lutrasil.

Repairing varieties need annual pruning for winter under the root. It is not advisable to leave annual shoots to harvest from them for the second year in the summer - the autumn harvest will ripen later and will be much less than expected. It should be carried out as late as possible, since the outflow of plastic substances from the stems to the root continues until frost.

Raspberry tree propagation methods

Raspberries are propagated by seeds for breeding purposes, since in 50% of cases it does not retain parental traits. When sowing seeds, the main advantage of the raspberry tree - the stem stem may be lost.

Traditionally, raspberries are propagated by root offspring. This method is simple, affordable and does not require special labor.Dig an overgrown shoot and transplant it to a new place.

It must meet the following criteria:

  • stem thickness not less than 0.8 cm;
  • well-developed root lobe with roots no shorter than 10 cm;
  • intact kidneys on the root neck - future shoots of substitution;
  • lack of signs of disease.

Some gardeners use “nettles” - young green shoots for propagation. As soon as they grow to 25 cm, they are transplanted to a seedling bed for growing, and in the fall they determine a permanent place for them.

Raspberries and root cuttings reproduce well. To do this, harvest pieces of roots 20 cm long and up to 8 mm thick. You need to take them at a distance of about 60 cm from the mother bush. Dug in the groove, by the fall they will give full shoots.

The division of the bush should be used if a new place is chosen for the plantation. Each dividend should have well-developed roots and 2-3 shoots, which, when planting, cut off at the level of 20-30 cm.

Pest and Disease Control

Most often, raspberries are plagued by raspberry beetle, raspberry moth, strawberry-raspberry weevil, gallic mosquito.

Against the raspberry beetle, the treatment during the formation of the buds with Iskra, Decis or Confidor is effective. Autumn digging destroys beetle pupae. The same measures are effective against strawberry and raspberry weevil. They are carried out at the same time.

So that the larvae of raspberry moth do not eat the kidneys, it is necessary to timely cut off the shoots, under whose bark they winter.

Against the gall midge, raspberries are treated with Actellic during the summer of the mosquito - in spring and summer.

To prevent fungal diseases, raspberries are treated with copper-containing fungicides or Topaz: the first time before buds open, and the second - buds.

If raspberry leaves begin to turn yellow for no apparent reason, light green or yellow spots appear on them - this is chlorosis. The fight against the disease does not exist. All diseased plants are destroyed.

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