Knowing how to cover roses for the winter, you can protect these beautiful flowers from frost and for many years admire their lush flowering. Owners of rose gardens complain that their pets often freeze due to severe frosts, or vyryvayut because of too warm shelter.
Material Content:
Why is it necessary to cover roses for the winter
Some varieties of roses can winter without shelter. In other cases, the winter hardiness of the species and specific weather conditions must be taken into account.
Shelter is necessary for such purposes:
- protect the root system from excessive moisture;
- make temperature changes less noticeable;
- prevents freezing of branches;
- create a more favorable climate.
But before you cover the roses, you need to carry out a number of additional activities - autumn dressing, pruning, processing and hilling.
At what temperature is it worth sheltering flowers
After preparatory measures, you need to wait until the onset of stable cold weather. Do not rush. It is better to cover the plants a little later than before. Early shelter can trigger the growth of young shoots and the awakening of sleeping buds, which is unnecessary. Small frosts are not at all scary - they harden the plant and accelerate the ripening of the branches.
As soon as small minus temperatures (up to -5 degrees) last a couple of days, you can begin to cover work.
To do this, choose dry weather. If there were rains before, it is necessary to wait until the soil dries out at least a little. Excess moisture often leads to fungal infections of roses, and in an enclosed space, plants quickly catch an infection.
How and what to hide
Depending on the region, the covering technique is very different.
In outskirts of Moscow
Shelter roses for the winter in the suburbs can be an ordinary lapnik. It is fast, reliable and convenient. With the help of fluffy fir branches, a small hut is built. You can put roofing material or film on top, but ventilation must be provided.
Instead of spruce branches, oak leaves can be used, since they do not rot for a long time. Park roses can be covered with wooden crates or other simple structures.
In the Urals
Spring in the Urals comes late, and after a short summer comes a cold winter with severe frosts. Therefore, only adapted roses grown in local nurseries can withstand such conditions.
Snow in the Urals falls only at the beginning of winter, but before that the earth manages to freeze well. Therefore, you need to prepare for cover work in advance. Shelter should be air-dry. One of the easiest ways is to wrap each bush with special material in several layers. This design is tied with twine and a large package. After snow falls, it is raked to the bushes, forming a snow blanket.
If the bushes grow in a row, it is convenient to cover them with lutrasil or spanbond stretched over metal arcs. For reliability, a dense plastic film is fixed on top.
In Siberia
Even in the harsh conditions of Siberia, you can grow beautiful roses. Only in autumn you need to work hard to make the plants a good shelter.
How can I shelter roses in Siberia:
- Option one. Even before the onset of frost, low-growing varieties grow to a height of at least 10 cm, tall - 40 cm. As soon as the soil freezes by 2-3 cm, the occult plants are covered with sawdust, shavings, needles and spruce branches. The cover layer should be thick. It is best to use needles, as it has good disinfecting properties.
- Option Two. This method is good in that it saves roses from blooming during the thaw. A strong frame is built around the plants. It must withstand wind, snow and a lot of shelter. A film is pulled onto the structure, but not hermetically so that air from the outside enters. This prevents condensation. Available insulating materials are placed on the film.
In the spring, shelter is not removed immediately, but in stages. This gives rose bushes the ability to adapt to weather changes.
Depending on grade
Ground cover varieties grow low, and it is easiest to cover them with spruce branches. But if winters are snowy, such roses can calmly winter and under a blanket of snow without any additional shelters.
It is difficult to harbor climbing varieties, as long branches can very easily be damaged. Therefore, before overwintering, all shoots must be carefully pinched and the remaining leaves removed. All damage and wounds must be treated with charcoal. The scourges must be carefully removed from the support, gathered in an armful and tied so that they do not crumble.
Climbing and climbing roses can be covered in two ways:
- The base of the bushes is covered with a dense layer of earth, covered with needles, sprinkled with sand and covered with spruce branches. The scourges are neatly laid out from above and covered again with fir branches. The whole structure is wrapped with film. With the onset of the first heat, branches begin to open and the entire plant is gradually freed from shelter.
- The stalks are carefully twisted with a tourniquet, and the main lashes are laid on a pre-built wire frame so that they do not touch the ground. A wooden frame is mounted over this entire structure and covered with a film. While there is no frost, the walls must be kept ajar. As soon as steady colds come, the frame is tightly covered with a film and fixed on all sides.
The latter method is more complicated, but does not require sprinkling the base of the bushes with earth.
The stamped rose must also be covered. Young trees are neatly bent to the ground and fixed with studs. The base is spudded with earth and, together with the crown, is insulated with spruce branches.Top plants are covered with waterproofing material.
Adult stems should not be bent, as they will break. It is best to make a wire frame-wigwam and wrap it with roofing material. Inside, pine needles or sawdust are covered. Wigwam wrapped with polyethylene and rope.
Other arrangements for preparing roses for winter
Before sheltering for the winter, roses must be fed, since during the entire growing season, plants take from the soil almost the entire supply of nutrients. For autumn top dressing, it is necessary to use special fertilizers. Most often, roses are fed a solution of potassium monophosphate and superphosphate. 30 g of each substance are taken per 20 l of water. Under each bush, no more than 5 liters of nutrient solution are poured. You can get by with folk methods. For 1 square. m. of soil you need to take 1 three-liter jar of ash and evenly sprinkle. As an option, add banana peel to the soil, it contains a lot of potassium and calcium.
After top dressing, roses need to be treated with fungicides. Most often they are sprayed with a solution of iron sulfate or Fitosporin.
From the first days of autumn, it is necessary to stop loosening the soil. This procedure provokes the growth of young shoots and the awakening of sleeping buds, and this is not necessary in the autumn.
In order for roses to successfully wintered, they must be cut, except for climbing and park varieties. The branches are trimmed to the height level of the future shelter so that the bush can be covered without much difficulty. Leaves and green shoots must be removed, as they will still freeze, leaving only lignified parts.
From under the bushes you need to scoop up all the garbage, dry foliage, grass. This will help to avoid fungal diseases, since their pathogens most often settle in humid places.
To improve aeration, each bush should be bent to a height of approximately 20 cm. Loose soil holds air well, which prevents frost from penetrating roots and sleeping buds.
The timely holding of all preparatory measures and competent shelter are the key to a successful wintering of roses.
